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Beacon Rock Update - 9/20/05
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Anchor Replacement Project

Flying Dutchman Anchors and Rap: The work on the main South face columns is now underway. The key anchor at the top of "Flying Dutchman" has been replaced as have the four anchors below on the route and on "Bears in Heat" next to it. All the bolts in all the five anchor sets were spinners and loose. "Flying Dutchman" is the route that tops out at the far West end of the Grassy Ledges trail past the large pine tree. For experienced folks that are totally comfortable with rappelling, rapping "Flying Dutchman" is the fastest, cleanest, and most interesting way to get down from any route that ends up on the Grassy Ledges. It also might open your eyes to some possibilities beyond the [classics] "Blownout" and "Blood, Sweat and Smears".

There is a blue safety rope attached to the pine tree that can be used to navigate down the last thirty feet or so of the Grassy Ledges trail to get to the top anchor of "Flying Dutchman"; set up on it like a rappel or use a grigri. The other end of the blue rope is attached to the top anchor of "Wild Turkeys" - don't go down there, but rather use the rope to follow the trail down and West where it ends at the column top and anchor of "Flying Dutchman". The rappel from this top anchor is spectacular and a pair of 60 meter ropes (with rope stretch) will deposit you on the walk off ramp just above the trail. 70m ropes will put you directly on the trail with about 15 feet of rope to spare. There are two Oak trees at the base of the route and the walk off ramp is at the lower of the two. Pulling your ropes on this rap takes next to no energy at all and if you just let the rope come down under its own power at the very end of the pull it will come down clean staying out of the tree.

ARP - What's Next: The next Anchor Replacement Project session will be working East from this rap towards Blownout. Later sessions will eventually finish up by "Wrong Gull" at which point the East Half of the South face will be complete. After that the routes West of "Flying Dutchman" between "Dirty Double Overhang" and "Steppenwolf" will complete the Anchor Replacement Project. Help is always welcome as there are about 40 anchors left to repair/replace, it's hard work with little climbing, but pretty damn rewarding in its own right - if it looks like you have a day free help out, email Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com and let us know.

Grassy Ledges Safety Issues: Please be extra careful with your feet and ropes anytime you are up on GL as there are lots of loose rocks about and the ledges won't be cleaned up until next year's pre-opening work session. Also, the BRCA, along with John Ernster of the BSRP Staff, are going to be working through some [safety] issues relative to topping out on a number of the [column] routes that end short of the GL trail and come up with a permanent solution to replace the blue rope that is up there now. Our intent is to come up with a solution that will both service more routes and be a bit less conspicuous. We'll keep you posted as this work develops but we won't be doing either the survey or planning until near the end of the year.

Kudos to contributors: Thanks for helping out with the Anchor Replacement Project are definitely in order:

- Ranger John Ernster and the Beacon Rock State Park Staff have been absolutely fantastic in providing logistical support, guidance, feedback, and oversight of the Anchor Replacement Project. We wouldn't be able to get any of this work done without their being behind the effort 110% of the way. Thank a Ranger the next time you meet one out at Beacon...

- Jim Opdyke has been just utterly invaluable in lending his intimate knowledge of Beacon history and providing guidance to this effort so be sure and give him a pat on the back if you run into him out there. Or, for that matter as a Founding Father of the BRCA, take him for a beer up at Skamania Lodge or down in PDX some time and ply him for a tale or two.

- Bill Coe another BRCA Founding Father, Bill has also been instrumental in providing guidance, brawn, material, and tools to the effort.

- Brooke Sandahl / Metolius for sourcing their fabulous and beefy Rap Anchors.

- Gavin Ferguson / US Outdoor Store for sourcing the webbing and Fixe rap rings.

Joseph Healy
Beacon Rock Climber's Association