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Beacon Rock Update - 09/12/05
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Illegal Route Markings - We had an incident of two climbs being marked with arrows scratched into the rock. We'd like to make it explicitly clear that marking of any kind is forbidden by State and BRSP regulations and that route finding is both a required skill and an integral [and desirable] part of climbing at Beacon Rock. If you know the way you don't need arrows and if the person following you can't follow your rope [and chalk] without arrows they don't belong on the route. Please do not make markings in or on the rock in any way whatsoever [even with chalk] as a) it sucks and b) it gives Jim Opdyke seizures and we are trying to keep him around at least as long as the SE Corner tree.
Bad Fall on "Free for Some" - As noted elsewhere on CC.com, a groundfall was taken on 8/30 on "Free for Some". This accident was a bad fall where otherwise good protection failed under specific, induced conditions. The belayer did a great job and leader was placing good protection; but in the fall got their leg under the rope snagging their second piece of pro and pulling it resulting in a ground fall. It is miraculous how little this lucky climber was injured given the fall and the topology at the base of the route. We don't have all the technical details yet, but this serves to remind us all to be constantly aware of the relationship of feet to rope while climbing; that helmets are good; and that "taking" on a difficult [trad] leads may not necessarily be an option available to you. The climber in question has displayed a stellar attitude in the wake of this incident and is to be commended for communicating the experience so well - all our best to their swift recovery and return to the rock.
SE Corner Tree - As one step in a long term effort to preserve this landmark tree we have installed slings and rings on it. Please use these rather than the tree for a belay or rappelling anchor. Also, with regard to rappelling from the tree: this has got to be one of the lousiest rappels on earth; just continue up to the Grassy Ledges main rap or, if you must rappel after the second pitch, then don't go up to the tree at all. Rather, at the top of the second pitch slab, instead of going up to the tree ledge, just go straight ahead 15 feet to the second pitch anchors of Young Warriors and rap there (2 raps with a 60, 1 rap with two 60's - don't do this with one 50 meter rope)
Trails and Ledge Paths - Please take extra care and watch your footfalls when walking on both the climber's trail to the base and on ledge paths such as up on Grassy Ledges. All trails and ledge paths are taking a bit of a beating this year. On the main climber's trail to the base in particular please pay attention and try not to further erode the trail. On ledges please pay particular attention to loose rocks and stones - especially smaller ones when going by them with either your feet or your rope. Helmets are definitely recommended.
Anchor Replacement Project
- As noted above the SE Corner tree got slings and rings, please use them if you don't feel comfortable building your own anchor in rock which is how the that pitch is traditionally anchored.
- The broken Z-pin at the top of "Jill's Thrills" was replaced by a long fat Lost Arrow. The Z-pin was not all that well placed (too long for the placement) and pretty much came right out and the "eye" was also splitting off from the body due to folks stepping or hanging on it over the years. We tried to replace it with a shorter Z-pin but the only thing that worked [solid] was the Lost Arrow. The lower Bugaboo on the route is solid.
- The top anchors on "Flying Dutchman" have been replaced, but need to be tightened.
- Future efforts: we are onto the main south face columns with "Flying Swallow" the first to go and we estimate another 25-30 anchors need to be replaced across the columns along with a smaller number of fixed pitons. Many of the intermediate anchors on these routes will get just the large Metolius Rap anchors that can be rapped directly and will not be outfitted with rings and slings as they don't get nearly the traffic and basically none of the raps are multi-directional, they just rap straight down the column. We have the costs covered, but let us know if you're up for helping out in the work sessions. They can make for a long, grueling day of humping gear, hauling, and jugging without doing much of anything in the way of climbing per se. If your up for that, then send an email to Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com with "Anchor Project" as the subject line and we'll get in touch with you.
Peregrines - Healthy and screaching about everytime we go out - magnificent in a dive and you can see the remains of their feasts on many of the column tops across the South side and on SE corner ledges: Seagulls, Blue Jays, and Pigeons in broad circled splashes of feathers and discarded wing sets...
Free Parking Pullout - As always, park diagonally, head in to the Southeast in the free pullout to the East of the main lot - not parallel to the road.
Joseph Healy
Beacon Rock Climber's Association
