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Beacon Rock Update - 10/6/05
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Anchor Replacement Project
"Flying Swallow": The top anchor on "Flying Swallow" has been replaced, but it does not have webbing and rings on it yet but definitely needs them - this is not a rap for rapping off the hangers due to the friction when trying to pull the rope. From this rap you can get to various anchors with two ropes. The mid-point anchor for "Iron Maiden" is directly below on this rap and, in fact, you have to swing a bit to the left to get back to the mid-point anchor for "Flying Swallow". Work was rudelying interrupted by rain and work on the anchors in this area will be completed this Sunday.
"Iron Maiden": As mentioned, the mid-point anchor on "Iron Maiden" has been replaced and it will remain just hangers without webbing and rings which aren't needed on this anchor. The old bolts and hangers have not yet been removed but will be in the next few days.
"Double Dirty Overhang": The top anchor for "Double Dirty Overhang has been located and this aid climb has some issues. The route from the anchors up to Grassy Ledges proper or to the "Flying Dutchman" rap is severely overgrown making entry and exit from the anchors difficult. Further, the upper part of the route itself is now completely overgrown with bushes and trees. It will take a substantial cleaning effort to recover this climb; likely work for next year.
[Note of thanks to Mark (HillsHugger) for helping hump gear up to the Grassy Ledges and to Shane and Lee for helping hump it back out in the rain.]
Safety Issues
Grassy Ledges Safety Rockfall: The recent rains have been bringing rocks down and the area at the start of the "SE Corner" has obviously taken multiple hits. We don't know where these rocks came from but we suspect the blackberry retaining chute that crosses the Grassy Ledges. Add this to last weekend's rockfall of football size rocks on both days onto the area just as you come up to Tunnel #1 and you get conditions that pretty well dictate wearing a helmet. As always - be extra careful of each and every footfall and rope movement when anywhere up on Grassy Ledges. For that matter just clip rock, bushes, anchors, or anything else if you're traversing the ledges roped - try not to let your rope drag at all...
General Issues
Central Columns Route Adoption: We're working hard with the Anchor Replacement Project to set the stage for ressucitating all the routes across the columns in the middle of the South face. But there is a problem. After years of folks mainly climbing around the SW and SE corners, the columns have become badly overgrown. However, once the anchors are all set we should be able to safely clean out and restore the South face column routes. This will probably be the post opening thrust next year. All of you interested in climbing these classics, or freeing some of the remaining aid pitches, might consider working together on restoring these routes. If everyone adopted two or three lines, cleaned them up, and revisited them each year we could probably get this all done in a month and then just be able to relax and enjoy climbing these routes the rest of the year. Keep it in mind anyway and we'll probably put together a meeting over the winter.
Joseph Healy
Beacon Rock Climber's Association
