=======================
Beacon Rock Update - 9/25/05
=======================

Anchor Replacement Project

The Best Laid Plans...: Well, the plan to work East from "Flying Dutchman" towards "Blownout" has been put on hold after a survey the lower Grassy Ledges comprising the tops of "Blownout" and its neighbors and another survey of the tiers from "Little Wing" to "Blownout". We do have to consider the danger of potential rockfall during our work and, simply put, a sizeable loose rock load has built up across the lower and upper Grassy Ledges making work there problematic. Some of this work will have to be deferred to either next years pre-opening work session or a mid-week closure later this fall. So we've switched to the backup plan and have started working West from "Flying Dutchman".

"Ground Zero" and Big Wall Practice: Anchor replacements West of "Flying Dutchman" have commenced with "Ground Zero" which is in the middle of the South face columns. It is on the left side of the leftmost of a several broken column roofs when looking up from the trail. This is another spectacular climb and good practice zone for anyone considering going down to the Valley to do an El Cap route. The mid-route anchor is a classic valley anchor with four bolts in a row side-by-side. This is a perfect setting for a portaledge as the columns flatten out at this spot so the anchor is against a "wall" as opposed to in a notch between two columns. Setting up camp on a wall can be a challenge so use this route for practicing your bivy skills.

"Flying Dutchman" Rap: Once again we wanted to suggest you use this rap off the Grassy Ledges if you are a competent and experienced rappeller comfortable with intermediate raps that have no standing ledges. You can get down this rap with pretty much any cord from a single 50 meter on up and you can get down in one shot with two 60 meter ropes. Using this rap will minimize any log jams on the traditional SE Corner descent rap and so also minimize potential rock fall that rap can sometimes generate when folks aren't careful.

Safety Issues

Grassy Ledges Safety Issues: As we've been reminding you there is lots of loose rock up on Grassy Ledges and yesterday we had a pretty serious incident of a football-sized rock getting launched from the ledges from above tunnel #1. We don't have the specific details, if you do send me a PM or email the Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com account. Again, this is deadly serious business and you MUST manage every footfall and rope movement when up on Grassy Ledges. If you are going to traverse the ledges with a rope from the point you hit them from the "SE Corner" then watch your rope like a hawk and clip a tree, bush, or put in a piece to keep the rope off the ground to the degree possible. If traversing on past the standard descent rap on your way up to the "Land of the Little People" Ledge or the "Flying Dutchman" rap then by all means clip that rap anchor on your way by it. Do whatever you have to do to keep your rope off the ground where it can launch rocks and be very, very careful how and where you step traversing the ledges. Another incident of this nature will likely trigger a temporary closure so that Grassy Ledges can be cleaned before climbing can resume.

General Issues

Dogs: Many folks we like and regard as good climbers and great company have dogs and bring them with them to Beacon. Part of the point of the re-founding of the BRCA is to restore relationships with the various agencies of record involved with managing Beacon and we are heavily focused on clear communication and complying with both State and Park rules and operating transparently within the bounds of the Climbing Management Plan. Part of those rules pertain to dogs and clearly state that dogs must be leashed and further must be under the physical control of their owner at all times. Every climber we've seen bring a dog so far has clearly decided these rules don't apply to them or their dog[s] and that "their dog" would never cause any problems. This unfortunately is beginning to become an issue that is attracting more attention. Every dog owner no matter who they are in a climbing context needs to understand these rules do apply to them and their dogs. Also, be prepared to pack out your animal's waste as we've now had three complaints from climbers who've stepped in you know what. We understand it's a complete drag, but please comply with these rules if you are going to bring your dog out.

Joseph Healy
Beacon Rock Climber's Association