=======================
Beacon Rock Update - 08/03/05
=======================
Free Parking Area - once again, please do not park parallel to the road in the free parking area East of the main lot, park diagonally facing the SE - thanks...
A Little Consideration - leaving unleashed dogs at the base of multi-pitch routes and covering the entire area at the base with your gear is a complete drag for folks coming up after you who don't know your animals and need some room to "suit up" as well. So a little consideration please, leash your dogs at all times if you must bring them out, pack out their waste, and don't monopolize the entire base of multi-pitch climbs.
Young Warriors - the block you step around at the start of the second pitch is big, not solid, and is what's left after trundling its righthand twin last fall. It isn't loose as in 'moves when you touch it' loose, but it is perceptibly "loose" and should not be pulled on any more than absolutely necessary - particularly not out away from the cliff as you step around it. We all need to monitor the status of this rock closely and if it comes to it we'll have to coordinate removing it with the park staff. This is somewhat problematic as it is possible it is chocking the rather larger rock above it. Time will tell - be careful around it and let myself, Jim Opdyke, Bill Coe, Kevin Evansen, or one of the Park Rangers know if it ever does move significantly on you.
Grassy Ledges Rocks - while we did do a significant amount of high priority, pre-opening trundling/cleaning, there is still a large amount of loose rock up on Grassy Ledges, some of it fairly big. Cleaning it will be the focus of next year's pre-opening work session, but until then - please, everyone be extremely careful making your way across the Grassy Ledges (p3 of SE Face), especially watch your rope!!!
Main SE Descent Rappels - we are still logging lots of incidents of smaller rock coming down during some climber's raps, so again please be especially careful of your feet and rope movements on the uppermost two rap stations. And as always it's a good idea to where a helmet at the start of the SE Face, Little Wing, etc. if it is a busy day out there.
SE Face Tree - the big landmark tree on the corner ledge above the slab has been taking a beating for years now as both a belay station and as a rap anchor. Please do not ever rap directly off the tree; one, it's a "bad rap" in general and a lousy way down; two, you are far better off continuing on up to the main Grassy Ledges rap or downclimb 12 feet and then traverse right 12 feet to the p2 anchors on Young Warriors rapping from there. In fact, if you are planning on only doing the first to pitches of the SE Face, then don't go up to the tree ledge and instead, on topping out from the slab, simply continue straight ahead to that p2 Young Warrior anchor right in front of you. At some point we'll be organizing a work crew to haul enough soil/gravel to re-bury the main root structure; how we end up dealing with rapping damage to the tree itself will depend on how it fairs this year. In general we'd ask that you simply not use the tree at all and build belay anchors on the ledge instead - however, if you must, then please use webbing or your rope and not thin cord[elettes] as they damage the tree more. This will likely be another long term monitoring situation out there so please pass this on to folks you know and let see if we can't all work to insure this Beacon landmark is around for a long, long time to come.
Anchor Replacement Project - We've been out doing more work this past week including finally getting up to replace the top rap station for the standard SE Face/Grassy Legdes descent route. Along the way the anchors on the first two pitches of Young Warriors were replaced, all four bolts turned out to be spinners so it was about time for an upgrade.
Ground Zero Rap Anchor - it is currently gone and we will finish replacing it asap; darkness and reason intervened in the middle of the operation. The original anchors are still up and to the right and remain serviceable until we can get back to it; either that or simply walk 60 feet to the right and use the main SE rap.
Peregrines - they have been really active and you'll see signs of their predation all over the South face in the form of large swaths of feathers where they've fed and possibly bodiless wing pairs around the base below. And if you get out much you don't really have to be all that lucky to see them. Their cries, tucked dives, and close flybys are pretty spectacular.
That's it for this update - have fun, play safe...
Joseph Healy
Beacon Rock Climber's Association
